Wissenswertes über Wein

Harmut Richter entführt Sie in diesem Blog in die große Welt der Weine, Schaumweine und Champagner. Welcher ein passt zu welchem Essen? Muss es immer der Teure sein oder was ist der Unterschied zwischen Champagner und Crémant? Das sind nur einige Fragen, die hier beantwortet werden.

06.12.2016 16:10 Uhr

Herstellung von Rosé-Champagner

Herstellung von Rosé-Champagner

Foto: Pixabay

 

Wie wird denn nun aber der Rosé-Champagner hergestellt?

Da gibt es auch interessante Eigenheiten, die vom üblichen Rosé Herstellungsverfahren abweichen. Zuerst einmal gibt es das Saignée Verfahren, das ist im Prinzip eine Maischestandzeit, d.h. dass die Maische der sanft gepressten Traubengut gekühlt, so dass die Gärung nicht starten kann, ein paar Stunden mazeriert, also die bei nahezu allen roten Trauben nur in der Schale befindliche Farbe in den Most ziehen kann. Eine weitere Möglichkeit in der Champagne Rosé zu produzieren besteht darin, dass man rote und weiße Grundweine assembliert und so auch gleich die Farbe des Rosé Champagners bestimmt. Da danach ja noch einmal eine zweite Gärung in der Flasche erfolgt, entsteht dann natürlich auch wieder ein komplett neuer Wein, so dass es sich hier nicht um einen simples Mischen von fertigen Weinen handelt, sondern eben auch hier wieder die umfangreiche Assemblage von mehreren Grundweinen vollzogen wird. Dieses Verfahren geht übrigens auf Madame Clicquot zurück, die 1818 als erste einen Rosé Champagner in eben dieser Art und Weise hergestellt hatte.

 

Wie nennt man nun heute dieses in der Champagne kultivierte Verfahren?

Klar, dass Sie das erkannt haben, das ist die klassische Flaschengärung.Aber auch hierzu erst mal ein bisschen was vom Urschleim.(Ups, kein schönes Wort, aber nu´ isses gedruckt.)

Grundsätzlich gibt es zwei Verfahren des Einbringens von Kohlensäure in den Wein. Zuerst das Karbonisieren, also das Hinzufügen von industrieller Kohlensäure mit technischen Mitteln. Dagegen steht die zweite Vergärung eines fertigen Weines in einem Tank durch Hinzufügen von Zucker oder Süßmost und Hefe, schon geht die Gärung wieder los. Beim Vergären wird durch die Hefe der Zucker in im Wesentlichen zwei entscheidende Produkte gespaltet, in Alkohol und Kohlensäure. Ist der wie auch immer geartete Gärbehälter nun ausreichend fest verschlossen, muss die entstehende Kohlensäure sich den Platz mit der gärenden Flüssigkeit teilen und macht sich möglichst klein. Jetzt werden die Bläschen auch wirklich fein, was sich durch längeres Lagernder Flaschen nach der Gärung noch weiter verbessert. Diese Art der Gewinnung von natürlicher Kohlensäure kennt man als Charmat Verfahren (Tankgärverfahren), hat ein Italiener erfunden, und zwar der italienische Önologe Federico Martinotti, Direktor des l’Istituto Sperimentaleper l`Enologia di Asti. Die dritte Methode ist die o.g. klassische Flaschengärung, auch als klassische Methode oder Champagner Methode bekannt, also die zweite Gärung in der Flasche, die dann erst wieder zu Trinken geöffnet wird, nachdem der Korken erstmal drauf ist.

 

Gibt es auch eine Flaschengärung ohne Klassik?

Ja. Die wird für Flaschen angewendet, die kleiner als die Normalflasche mit 0,75 Ltr. Füllvermögen sind. Der Schaumwein dafür wird in Großflaschen wie Magnum oder Doppelmagnum/ Jeroboam Flaschen vergoren, danach wird dieser Schaumwein in einen Drucktank umgefüllt und unter Druck dann in Kleinflaschen mit weniger als 0,75 Ltr abgefüllt. Ist dann auch eine Flaschengärung, aber der Wein hat halt die Flasche, in der er die zweite Gärung erfahren hat, vor dem Öffnen zum Trinkspaß schon einmal verlassen. Der aufmerksame Trinker wird nun aber schon den Haken bei der Sache entdeckt haben. Das die Kohlensäure drin bleibt ist klar, ist halt einfach ein Gas. Aber die Hefe, die den Zucker aufgespaltet hat, die löst sich eben nicht auf. Und wo ist die hin? Na ja, auf jeden Fall nicht mehr in der Flasche, also muss sie einen Weg zur Flucht gefunden haben. Hat sie auch, und zwar in Gestalt eines mit einem Bierflaschenöffner bewaffneten Fluchthelfers. Der nennt sich Kellermeister. Nach dem Ansetzen der Zucker/Hefe oder auch ggfs. Süßmost/Hefe Mischung, der sog. Ansatzdosage oder vornehmer dosage de licor, wird die Schaumweinflasche mit einem Kronkorken verschlossen, der die zu erreichenden 6,5 bar Innendruck durchaus aushält. Ihr Autoreifen hat so um die 2,5 bar Innendruck, nur mal so für den Schreck. :-) Und jetzt schlagen die vielen Stunden des fleißigen Rüttlers, dem aufopferungsvollen Menschen, der nun jeden Tag mehrere Stunden Kilometer von Kellergängen durchwandert und beidhändig immer zwei Flaschen nach den anderen mit kleinen, gekonnten flinken hin und her Drehbewegungen die erst einmal waagerecht in vorgebohrten Löchern eines Dach artigen Holzgestelles am Halse aufgehängt schwebenden Flaschen bewegt, um den sich während des liegenden Lagerprozesses der Flaschen sich an deren Innenwand abgelagert haben den Hefetrub/Depot vom Untergrund zu lösen und durch eine zusätzlich und gleichzeitig ausgeführte leichte Schrägstellung der Flasche in diesem Rüttelpult/Pupitre genannten Gestell immer ein Stückchen weiter in Richtung Flaschenhals rutschen zulassen, ohne diesen feinen, schlammigen Trub unnötig aufzuwirbeln, bis nach einigen Tagen die Flaschen nahezu senkrecht mit dem Boden nach oben in ihrer schrägen Bohrung des Rüttelpultes stehen. Im Französischenheißt dieser Vorgang Remuage.

Erfunden hat das Rüttelpultder Geschichte nach 1813 der deutsche Kellermeisterder Witwe (Veuve) Clicquot,Anton von Müller. Angeblichbestand der Anfang dieserErfindung erst einmal nur auseiner gebohrten Tischplatte. So weit so chic.

Jetzt muss der Hefetrub/Depot nur noch raus aus der Flasche. Dazu wird der Flaschenhals bis zur Höhe des Hefedepots imEisbad gefroren und nun kommt der Fluchthelfer zum Einsatz. Die Flasche in Richtung eines Fangtrichters haltend, wird der Kronkorken ähnlich wie bei einer Flasche Bier geöffnet, mit 6,5 Bar Druck am Hintern schießt der gefrorene Hefepfropfen aus der Flasche, so dass kein trübes Teilchen zurückbleibt. Dieser Vorgang nennt mandegorgieren/Dégorgement. Natürlich spritzt ein bisschen Schaumwein dabei mit heraus. Dieser Verlust ist minimal (bei höherer Abfüllung vorher ist sogar noch genug Füllmenge enthalten) und muss nun aber aufgefüllt werden. Nur mit dieser geringen Menge Versanddosage, franz. liquerd’expédition, wird übrigens die Geschmacksrichtung, also

 

• Brut Nature, non dosé oder zero dosage 0 bis 3 g/l Restzucker

• Extra Brut 0 bis 6 g/l Restzucker

• Brut 0 bis 12 g/l Rz

• Extra Sec oder Extra Dry12 bis 17 g/l Rz

• Sec 17 bis 32 g/l Rz

• Demi-Sec 32 bis 50 g/l Rz

• Doux mehr als 50 g/l Rz bestimmt!

 

Die Flasche wird nun verkorkt und jetzt kommt endlich das Muselet (sprich Müsliä), das „Maulkörbchen“, mit dem obligatorischen Metallplättchen mit Aufdruck oder Prägung, dem capsule de champagne, über den typisch dicken nach unten auseinandergehenden Korken, um das ungewollte Rausschießen des Korkens zu verhindern. Üblich ist die Bezeichnung Agraffe, die ist aber genau genommen nicht richtig, da eine Agraffe nur zwei Krallen hat, wenn die aus dünnem Draht ist, auch nochmal mit einem dünnen, flachen Metallband um den Flaschenhals verbunden. Früher wurde eine einfache Kordel dafür genutzt. Sieht man gelegentlich noch bei Plastikkorken von Sektflaschen oder bei einfacheren italienischen Schaumweinen.

 

Ihr Hartmut Richter!

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13.06.2017 07:12 Uhr
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