Der Blog des Restaurantkritikers

Er ist immer noch der schärfste Restaurantkritiker der Stadt. Er nimmt kein Blatt vor den Mund, kritisiert, was zu kritisieren ist. Er ist unabhängig und meist unerkannt unterwegs, schaut hin, wo andere zwei Augen zudrücken und lobt, wenn es zu loben gilt. Wir stellen euch jeden Tag ein neues Restaurant vor, was er unter die Lupe genommen hat. 

20.01.2017 09:28 Uhr

Frischer Fisch, klarer Geschmack und eine besondere Karte: Kastenmeiers - Tzschirnerplatz 3-5, Dresden

Frischer Fisch, klarer Geschmack und eine besondere Karte: Kastenmeiers - Tzschirnerplatz 3-5, Dresden

Nein, ein Restaurantkritiker darf nicht schwindeln. Es ist nicht unser 528. Testbesuch, aber es fühltsich so an. Wir waren wirklich oft da, um das Phänomen Kastenmeiers (Tzschirnerplatz 3-5) zu ergründen.

 

Man kann nichts anderes sagen: Es ist brechendvoll. Und auch das muss man zugeben: Hier sinddie, die man kennt. Zumindest kennen wir viele Gäste. Darunter auch anderen Gastronomen, die ja wissen sollten, wo es gut ist, wenn sie ihre rare Freizeit hier verbringen und selbst speisen. Beim Plausch mit dem Chef, Gerd Kastenmeier, haben wir das erste Mal seit Jahren ein Gefühl des Willkommenseins. Er geht von Tisch zu Tisch, offensichtlich ist er mit vielen per Du. Manche hofiert er mehr, manche flüchtig. Aber es scheint seine Präsenz zu sein, die in das von uns sonst so oft kritisierte Kastenmeiers Atmosphäre bringt. So haben wir ihn noch nie erlebt und gleichstrahlt das ganze Restaurant in anderem Licht. Sein bayerischer Akzent ist uns durch die letzten Jahre unserer Arbeit in München (Disy Münchenbringen wir jetzt schon seit vier Jahren heraus) sehr vertraut. In München ist es auch stets so, dass sich die Chefs nach getaner Arbeit zu uns an den Tisch setzen, egal ob Zwei-Sterne-Koch Bobby Breuer, der einen edlen Tropfen ausgibt oder Diethard Urbansky, Chef vom Zwei-Sterne-Restaurant Dallmayer. In München ist das üblich, in Dresden noch nicht so. Im Kastenmeiers gönnen wir uns je 20g Sevruga-Kaviar (25 Euro). Es ist Montag und wirverzichten auf den Beluga (20g 40 Euro). Vor ein paar Wochen saßen wir im Savoia in Mailandund genossen eine Trilogie aus Ossietra, Sevruga und Beluga. Irgendwie haben es die MailänderKellner schöner zelebriert. Im Kastenmeiers stand der Kaviar einfach auf dem Tisch, als wir nach einem kurzen Gespräch zurück kamen. Was wir sehr mochten, war die Präsentation des Fisches zum Hauptgang. Er roch richtig gut nach Meer. Wir bestellten zum obligatorischen Hummer einen Steinbutt. Schön, dass das Team die Portionen jeweils halbierte, so dass man beides genießen konnte. Dazu gab's Pfifferlinge mit getrüffeltem Kartoffelstampf. Allein wegendes Kartoffelbreis können wir das Kastenmeiers dieses Mal anpreisen. Der war richtig lecker. Fisch und Hummer kamen ohne Schnick Schnack. Der Eigengeschmack kam gut zur Geltung. Der Wein vom Prinz zur Lippe passte. Besonders gern mögen wir den Gruß des Hauses zumSchluss: rundes Eis am Stil mit Schokoladenüberzug. Das kühlt auch immer die Gemüter, wenn wir die Rechnung bekommen. Diese Mal mussten wir 275,60 Euro zahlen. Gefühlt ist das Kastenmeiersnach den Dresdner Sternerestaurants das teuerste Lokal in Dresden. Aber recherchiert haben wir das noch nicht. Es fühlt sich nur so an.

 

Fazit: Wem frischer Fisch, klarer Geschmack und eine besondere Karte etwas wert sind, kann sich hin und wieder einen Besuch im Kastenmeiers gönnen. Wem der Chef wohlgesonnen ist, der wird als Gast hofiert. Wem nicht, der hat dennoch einen genussvollen Abend. Dieses Mal hat es uns gefallen.

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05.09.2017 04:41 Uhr
jianbin0905

jianbin0905

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30.09.2017 11:15 Uhr
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26.11.2017 03:22 Uhr
BobbyCap

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